KENZO By NIGO: Fall-Winter 2025 Men’s Collection
THE KENZO COMMUTE: a wardrobe woven on the train from Tokyo to Paris. The KENZO Fall-Winter 2025 Men’s Collection takes shape on a futuristic high-speed journey from East to West. Re-imagining concepts from the Maison’s Train Show from Fall-Winter 1998, Artistic Director Nigo lets the idea of the passage inspire a cultural cross-pollination between dress codes, textures and patterns, and paints it in a playful and preppy palette invigorated by the energy of travel. Celebrating a lifelong creative friendship, Nigo invites the American artist Futura 2000 to create imagery and iconography for the collection in a collaboration serendipitously marked by the fusion of their monikers: ‘2000’ plus ‘Ni-go’ – which also means 2-5 in Japanese – equals the year 2025. Presented in the Palais de Chaillot with the Eiffel Tower as its backdrop, the show features a live concert by the American cellist and composer Erik Friedlander, who performs a repertoire of pieces curated by Nigo.
Silhouettes and textures
English tailoring sourced from the historical clothing archives of Nigo is re-interpreted through a contemporary lens. Suits – their pieces separated in styling – are imbued with the untraditional tailoring language of fluffy textures and accents of powdery pastels, infusing them with a preppy panache. Classic suit compositions assume Japanese constructions, and in new takes on the three-piece suit, jackets are spliced with kimono-cut waistcoats. Workwear likewise informed by archival archetypes enters into a number of textural code-swaps: boxy utility jackets engineered in vibrant, wintery mohair; rugged work jackets and rigid bombers softened in pastels; and salopettes deconstructed and formalised in denim suits. Knitwear created through intricate techniques and textures affirm the collection’s preppy silhouette. Japanese denim trousers appear with turn-ups, revealing the selvedge.
Patterns and motifs
A series of patterns and motifs are centred around train journeys and executed through a wealth of techniques. Inspired by the speed-obscured views of landscapes from a train window, train stripes manifest in different forms. Informed by the KENZO archives, diagonal stripes and stripes that mutate into leaf shapes appear in tailoring, denim and shirting. A train-window motif picturing scenes from Paris and Japan is interpreted in prints on shirts and t-shirts, and in jacquard in knitwear also embellished with emblems of train station matrixes. Kenzo Weave, the patterns created in Japanese flooring, is shaved into shearling and expressed through jacquard in denim and tailoring. It also appears quilted over a paisley adapted from the KENZO archive in khaki and brightly-coloured manifestations. Nigo pays homage to the Japanese slot ma- chines of his childhood known as pachinko in graphics brought
Futura 2000
A close friend of Nigo since 1994, Futura 2000 collaborates on imagery and icono- graphy for the collection. The American artist, whose practice first developed within the genre of graffiti in New York City during the 1970s, was among the earliest artists to introduce abstraction into the art form and among the first to break barriers and show in contemporary art galleries in the early 1980s. Reflective of his and Nigo’s shared attraction to outer space, Futura 2000’s collaboration
for the Fall-Winter 2025 Men’s Collection is articulated in an interaction between the artist’s signature stylized atom motif and KENZO’s emblematic boke flower. The motif is illustrated in ripstop and nylon track suits, needle-punched workwear, embroidered denim and bleached-print denim. In knitwear, space yarns evoke the spray paints of Futura 2000’s practice. The artist also paints a KENZO logo embroidered on a grizzly-effect shearling varsity jacket.
Accessories
Reflecting on the commuter lifestyle, bags constructed in leather posing as brown paper take form in a variety of on-the-go shapes: a bottle bag, a packed-lunch bag, a baguette folder, a flower folder, a delivery tote bag and a shopping bag. Some also featured in leather posing as graph paper. Japanese minimised schoolboy caps embody a feeling of prep echoed in boyish Mary-Janes constructed in black, burgundy and cherry leather. Round-toe creepers – proposed as shoes or boots – in brown, light brown or stone shearling and suede fuse subcultural expressions with the genre of workwear. Instilling a sense of formality, spectator shoes are structured with a lightweight sole for comfort features in black and white or black and brown two-tone. The Dome sneaker re-emerges in the mohair materials of the collection, and in rough black suede. Leather belts are punched with boke-shaped eyelets, while artificial boke flower boutonnières are carried as floral tokens.
Kenzo By Nigo Fall-Winter 2025 Men’s Collection Le Palais De Chaillot Friday, January 24th 2025
Production by Back of the House
Show music produced by Erik Friedlander
Content production by Kitten
Styling by Max Pearmain
Casting by Mischa Notcutt for 11 casting
Make up by Lucy Bridge and the Make Up For Ever team
Hair by Virginie Moreira
Nails by Ama Quashie
In the Philippines, Kenzo is exclusively distributed by Stores Specialists, Inc., located at Greenbelt 3 and The Mall | NUSTAR Cebu . Visit ssilife.com.ph or follow @ssilifeph on Instagram for more information.
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