Alexander McQueen Autumn Winter 2020 Women's Show
“The collection is a love letter to women and to families, colleagues and friends. We went to Wales and were inspired by the warmth of its artistic and poetic heritage, by its folklore and the soul of its craft. The woman is courageous, grounded, bold: heroic. There is a sense of protection in the clothes, of safety and comfort, evoked through quilting and blankets. The hearts are a symbol of togetherness, of being there for others.”
A signature tailored double-breasted coat with a swallow tail in double-milled navy worsted flannel with a contrast ivory darted waist panel and lapels. The flannel is woven by Savile Clifford, a British mill renowned for generations for the finest tailoring cloth.
A black and lilac chevron checked blanket coat in double-face wool cashmere. The coat is inspired by traditional Welsh blankets woven from the fleece of black sheep.
An asymmetric draped check blanket dress in black and lilac wool cashmere belted over a black leather bodice. The dress is inspired by Welsh shawls traditionally worn by men and women for warmth, practicality and for carrying their children.
A soft lilac halterneck dress draped over a contrast black leather corset harness.
A red dress draped over a black leather corset.
An exploded poet-sleeved dress in tiers of white gathered cotton silk faille and a voluminous skirt held with a black leather harness.
An exploded poet-sleeved dress in tiers of gathered lilac cotton silk faille with a draped bow back. The dress is inspired by the romantic muse of a Dylan Thomas poem.
A poet-sleeved shirt dress in white cotton poplin with a Watteau back.
An Argyle intarsia rib-knit jumper dress with an exploded peplum in ivory and a red and black cross. The jumper dress is created by piecing and patching two jumpers into one.
A graphic Argyle intarsia rib-knit cardigan with an exploded peplum in black with a red and ivory cross. The jumper dress is created by piecing and patching two jumpers into one.
A black and grey denim dress with contrast corsetry-inspired top-stitching. The denim has been pieced together in geometric patches inspired by traditional Welsh quilts.
A lightly wadded quilt pink and damson silk satin dress.
A rose pink engineered rib-knit dress with a cut-out bodice, high neckline, dégradé sheer panelled hem and swallow tail.
A blush pink engineered rib-knit dress with a cut-out bodice, sweetheart neckline, sheer dégradé panelled hem and swallow tail.
A black leather dress with a swallow tail, pleated drape and ivory guipure love spoon lace encrustation. Welsh love spoons were ornately hand-carved with entwined hearts and flowers and given as love tokens.
A red guipure love spoon lace dress with a cut-out back. A traditional token of endearment, the wooden spoons are translated into graphic motifs of multiple heart-shaped spoons and doves.
A silk taffeta and organza dégradé dress in an entwining love heart fil coupé jacquard with a Watteau back, short gathered skirt and voluminous train. Framed by a scalloped edge, the engineered red and ivory pattern is inspired by seventeenth century love letters, graphic medieval decoration and love spoons.
A silk taffeta and organza dégradé dress in an entwining love heart fil coupé jacquard with a Watteau back. Framed by a scalloped edge, the engineered red and silver pattern is inspired by seventeenth century love letters, graphic medieval decoration and love spoons.
A black tulle dress with narrative hand-drawn embroidery in jet. The bucolic embroidery is inspired by flora and fauna featured in medieval Welsh tales.
A red silk and black metallic dress in love heart fil coupé with black tulle and crinoline underskirts. The dress is inspired by seventeenth century love letters.
A dress encrusted with a heraldic embroidery of red and black facetted glass and bugle beads. The embroidery is inspired by motifs featured in Welsh folklore and includes shields, feathers, acorns, salmon, a horseshoe, a ring and a crow.
A black wool silk tailored evening jacket with trompe l’oeil layered lapels and sculpted heart sleeve drape in red double duchesse satin.
A blush tulle dress with red embroidery. The embroidery is inspired by Welsh folklore and traditional red work and includes an otter, acorns, butterflies, nettle, a pansy, thyme, a hen, salmon, a starling and a sheep.
A tulle dress with black bucolic embroidery in jet, silk sequins, cording, ruffles and quilting. The fully engineered bodice of the dress is constructed in a quilted patchwork and embroidered with jet and satin stitch details. The embroidery is inspired by Welsh folklore.
A sculptural sliced tailored dress with a swallow tail in navy double-milled wool flannel with a darted waist panel and contrast ivory bodice.
A sculptural dress with a deep sweetheart neckline in black worsted flannel with a swallow tail. The cloth is woven by British weavers John Foster, renowned for fine flannels.
A signature strong-shouldered single-breasted jacket and straight-legged trousers in black and ivory check and a white cotton poplin shirt. The check is inspired by the bold wool flannel patterns and colours of traditional Welsh costume.
A signature tailored coat in pieced Prince of Wales worsted check with contrast panels in black wool silk. The black and white check references the distinctive geometric motifs of traditional Welsh costume.
A sliced and pieced tailored jacket and straight-legged trousers in black wool silk with contrast panels in Prince of Wales worsted check.
A tailors’ quilt strong-shouldered single-breasted jacket and straight-legged trousers in black, grey, lilac and ivory flannel. Figurative motifs of doves, a panther, a horse and a leek are hand-embroidered into a patchwork design. The pattern is inspired by the allegorical tailors’ quilt at St Fagans National Museum of History, Amgueddfa Cymru – National Museum Wales. Hand-stitched over ten years from 1842, it was made by master tailor James Williams and comprises over four and a half thousand patches. Welsh tailors’ quilts were made out of salvaged flannel taken from mill sample books, suits and military uniforms. The quilts provide a record of both the materials and social history of the time in which they were made.
A black leather coat with an asymmetric draped patterned blanket in red, damson and black. The coat is inspired by the tailors’ quilts in the Jen Jones Welsh Quilts and Blankets collection.
A black leather corset dress with an asymmetric draped patterned blanket in red, damson and brown. The dress is inspired by the tailors’ quilts in the Jen Jones Welsh Quilts and Blankets collection.
A tailors’ quilt single-breasted coat with a swallow tail constructed in an embroidered patchwork of red, damson, ivory, grey, and black flannel. Taking inspiration from James Williams’ tailors’ quilt at St Fagans National Museum of History, Amgueddfa Cymru – National Museum Wales, the folk art design demonstrates the tailor’s creative spirit and his appreciation of the engineering achievements of his time, featuring figurative motifs of viaducts, steam trains and sailing ships.
A strong-shouldered narrow-waisted single-breasted jacket and straight-legged trousers in black and ivory morning stripe with a white cotton poplin shirt.
A rose pink quilted silk jacquard trench coat with a swallow tail. The fabric is inspired by hand-stitched motifs and patterns found in traditional Welsh quilts and petticoats featuring leaves, flowers and hearts, symbols of love, nature and eternity.
A black wool silk single-breasted tailored coat with a quilted skirt in rose pink. The jacquard is inspired by hand-stitched motifs and patterns found in traditional Welsh quilts. The cloth is woven on specialist looms in layers of fine silk yarn and soft wool thread.
A blush pink double duchesse silk jacket and long tapered trousers.
A tailored single-breasted coat in black leather with an ivory guipure love spoon lace encrustation. The love spoon is a traditional token of endearment carved from a single piece of wood. It features symbolic motifs including leaves, knots, hearts, flowers, daffodils and birds.
A sculptural tailored single-breasted jacket in black wool silk with satin lapels, jets and buttons and a wool silk skirt.
A black wool silk trompe l’oeil layered single-breasted jacket with satin lapels, jets, buttons and straight-legged trousers with a black tuxedo stripe.
A strong-shouldered waisted jacket and straight-legged trousers in red double duchesse satin. The colour is inspired by Kennixton farmhouse at St Fagans National Museum of History, Amgueddfa Cymru – National Museum Wales. The colour red was thought to possess magical healing properties and powers of protection.
A black dégradé wool silk dress with a deep sweetheart neckline. The engineered dégradé effect is achieved by a shading of fine wool and silk threads into sheer organza.
A black tailored single-breasted coat in wool silk and organza dégradé with black satin lapels, jets and buttons.
A red cropped double duchesse silk jacket and black double duchesse silk trousers.
A rose pink double duchesse satin corset with peplum and black double duchesse satin straight-legged trousers.
A dress encrusted with a love spoon embroidery in bullion, crystal, metal thread work, metal sequins and beads.
A black wool silk tuxedo coat with a deconstructed heart sleeve and floor-length drape.
Shoes
Stretch-leather thigh-high and trouser-boots are fitted tight to the leg with pointed toes pinched to create a sharp edge. Flat leather utility boots on signature tread soles and Chelsea boots. Mechanical heels with raw-edged leather uppers and metal pointed toes.
Jewellery
Jewellery is cast in high-shine metal: chokers, double-layer cuffs, multi-rings, punk ear hooks. Domed chokers have a smooth modern surface. Charms include hares, foxes, birds, horseshoes, pocket-watches, perfume bottles, books and match-boxes. Either hung from tubular chokers or delicate hoops are hand-carved bird whistles.
Bags
New introductions include The Story Book, with a double folding handle and a cross body chain, The Big Story and the Large Sculptural Pouch. The Story Shoulder has an exaggerated brass front handle and a chain shoulder strap. Metal clutches are suspended from shiny leather harnesses.
Music
Music includes ‘At First Sight’, written and performed by Daniel Avery and Alessandro Cortini (published by Phantasy Sound Ltd., Administered by Bucks Music Group Ltd. / Mute Song Ltd.), and readings from the works of Dylan Thomas (Our Eunuch Dreams, January 1939 and Light Breaks Where No Sun Shines). © The Dylan Thomas Trust. Courtesy of The Dylan Thomas Trust.
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